Exterior Door Replacement Cost

Should I replace just the door (slab) or the whole frame?

It comes down to the condition of your existing frame. If the frame (the jamb and threshold) is solid, square, and the right size, a 'door only' replacement — fitting a new slab or pre-hung door into it — is cheaper and faster, and it's what this calculator's 'door only' option prices. But if the frame is rotted, warped, out of square, or you're changing the door's size or swing, you need a full-frame replacement: new frame, brickmold, and exterior trim. Forcing a new door into a bad frame is a false economy — you'll get drafts, water intrusion, and a door that sticks or won't seal. Exterior doors that have leaked for years often hide rot in the frame or even the subfloor beneath the threshold, which is why many pros default to full-frame for older openings. If you can't tell, budget for full-frame and let the installer confirm.

Why do sidelights and double doors cost so much more?

Because you're not just adding glass — you're enlarging the whole opening and multiplying the components. A single entry door is one slab in a standard 3-foot rough opening. Add sidelights (the glass panels beside the door) and the opening might grow to 4–6 feet wide, requiring a bigger header, more framing, and one or two extra glazed units that each have to be built, flashed, and sealed — which is why sidelights roughly double the cost. Double doors are two full door slabs plus the hardware to make them meet and latch correctly (an astragal, flush bolts, weatherstripping between them), and getting a pair to seal and operate smoothly is more finicky than a single. Both also often mean structural changes if you're widening an existing single-door opening, which adds framing and sometimes a permit. They look great and add light and curb appeal — just budget accordingly.

Which entry door material is the best value?

For most homeowners, fiberglass hits the best balance, which is why it's the popular default. Steel is the cheapest and quite secure, but it dents (hard to fix), can rust at the edges, and conducts cold, so it shows wear and isn't ideal in harsh sun or coastal air. Solid wood is the most beautiful and the premium in cost, but it needs regular refinishing and can warp or swell with moisture, so it's best under a covered, protected entry. Fiberglass resists dents, rot, and warping, insulates well, needs little maintenance, and comes in convincing wood-grain textures — so it delivers most of wood's look and steel's toughness without their weaknesses, at a mid-range price. Steel makes sense for a low-traffic back or side door on a budget; wood for a showpiece front entry you'll maintain; fiberglass for almost everything else.

Is a storm door worth adding?

Often yes, for $300–$800 installed, but it depends on your entry. A storm door adds a layer of weather protection that can extend the life of the main door (especially a wood one), lets you open up for ventilation and light with the screen, and adds a bit of insulation and security. The catch: on a door that gets strong direct sun, a storm door can trap heat between the two doors and 'cook' the main door, voiding some fiberglass and wood-door warranties and causing warping or finish damage — manufacturers often warn against storm doors on south- and west-facing sun-exposed entries. So it's a clear win on a shaded or north-facing door or where you want screen ventilation, and something to check the main door's warranty on for a sun-baked entry. If you're only replacing a storm door, price it directly by choosing 'Storm' as the door type.

What can make a door replacement cost more than the estimate?

A handful of things that show up once work starts or that aren't in a base price. The classic is hidden rot — in the frame, the sill, or the subfloor under the threshold — common on doors that have leaked, and it has to be repaired before the new door goes in. Structural changes drive cost too: widening an opening for sidelights or a double door means a new header and framing, and sometimes a permit ($50–$300+ depending on your area). High-end doors and decorative or impact-rated glass can add hundreds to thousands over builder-grade. Difficult access, an out-of-square wall, or a threshold that needs rebuilding all add labor. And matching a non-standard or historic size means a custom door at a premium. This calculator covers the routine range; a walkthrough quote is the way to catch these specifics before they surprise you.