Interior Door Replacement Cost
Replacing interior doors costs $120–$680 per door installed depending on hollow vs. solid core. Price one door or the whole house — including haul-away and hardware — and see where mixing door types saves money.
Replacing interior doors runs $120–$680 per door installed depending on quality — and the smart play is usually a mix: solid-core where you sleep and bathe, hollow-core where you store. Count each kind below and see the honest total, including hauling the old doors away.
Solid-core doors
Doors where quiet and heft matter: bedrooms, bathrooms, the home office. Solid-core (engineered wood or MDF core) blocks noticeably more sound, feels substantial, and resists dents — the upgrade you experience every day. Count the doors you'd want it on; a typical 3-bedroom home has 5–7. Set to 0 if you're going all-budget.
Hollow-core doors
Doors that just need to close: closets, the pantry, the laundry, low-traffic rooms. Hollow-core is light and inexpensive, and nobody needs sound isolation from a linen closet. A typical home has 3–6 of these. Set to 0 to go all solid-core. Don't count specialty doors here — pocket, barn, French, and bifold doors are priced differently (see the guide below).
New hardware too?
Whether each door also gets a new knob or lever (privacy sets for bedrooms and baths, passage sets elsewhere) and hinges. Reusing existing hardware saves real money on a whole-house job — but mismatched old brass on crisp new doors is the classic regret, and hardware is cheap per door relative to the doors themselves.
Cost to replace 10 interior doors
$1,780–$6,400
6 solid-core + 4 hollow-core, installed, old doors hauled away
You've priced the smart mix
Solid-core where it's heard — bedrooms, bathrooms, the office — and hollow-core where it isn't. This configuration captures nearly all of the felt upgrade of an all-solid house while trimming 15–25% off the bill. Sanity-check your split: any door you close for sleep, privacy, or calls earns solid-core; pure storage doors don't.
Three ways to shrink a whole-house door bill
Slab-swap where the frames are good — if jambs are square and undamaged, buying just the door slab (typically half the cost of pre-hung) and hanging it on the existing frame saves real money, though it needs a skilled installer. Ask about multi-door deals — manufacturers and dealers offer package pricing on batches, sometimes pre-painted. And batch the finishing: primed doors still need paint, and one painting session for twelve doors costs far less than twelve separate touch-ups.
Per-door pricing uses complete-installation figures (door + labor) by core type — solid $150–$680, hollow $120–$380 — plus $40–$80 per door to remove and dispose of the old ones. Assumes standard-size, square openings — resizing ($250–$400) or reframing ($110–$220) an opening is extra, as are painting, new trim and casing ($2–$4/linear ft), and specialty doors: pocket ($500–$2,500), barn ($160–$1,800), and French ($200–$1,600) are their own projects.
💡About this calculator▼
Interior doors are one of those finishes you stop seeing until the day you notice all of them at once — hollow, dinged, painted-over seventies slabs in an otherwise updated house. Then comes the natural question: what would it cost to just replace them all? The honest answer: $120 to $680 per door installed, which for a typical home with 8 to 12 interior doors makes a whole-house swap a $1,600 to $7,600 project — real money, but one of the highest-impact finish upgrades per dollar a house can get.
The per-door price turns almost entirely on one choice: hollow-core or solid-core. Hollow-core doors — a thin veneer skin over a cardboard honeycomb — install for $120 to $380 each and are perfectly good for closets, pantries, and laundry rooms. Solid-core doors (an engineered wood or MDF core) install for $150 to $680 and are the upgrade you can hear and feel: noticeably better sound blocking, satisfying heft, no more hollow *bonk* when a door closes. That's why the pro move for a whole house is mixing — solid-core for the bedrooms and bathrooms where quiet and privacy matter, hollow-core for the storage doors nobody thinks about — which typically trims 15 to 25% off an all-solid bill with zero noticeable downgrade.
This calculator prices the mix directly: count your solid-core doors and your hollow-core doors separately, decide whether the hardware gets replaced too, and get a total that includes hauling away the old doors ($40 to $80 each — a line item people forget until twelve doors are leaning in the garage). One scope note: swinging doors only. Pocket doors ($500–$2,500), barn doors ($160–$1,800), French doors ($200–$1,600), and bifolds are individual projects with their own price tags — the guide below covers them, but they don't belong in a batch count.
Per-door price × door count, with the two add-ons a whole-house job actually incurs.
Per door, installed (door + labor, from complete-installation figures): • Hollow-core ≈ $120–$380 — light and inexpensive; right for closets, pantry, laundry • Solid-core ≈ $150–$680 — heavier, quieter, more durable; right for bedrooms and baths (the industry headline for a standard bedroom/bathroom door is $155–$688, which brackets this band)
+ Old door removal & disposal ≈ $40–$80 per door — always included here, because replacing doors means getting rid of doors
+ New hardware (optional) ≈ $40–$150 per door — a passage or privacy set plus hinges; reusing existing hardware is a real saver, mismatched old brass on new doors is the classic regret
Example — the typical whole house: the smart mix of 6 solid-core (bedrooms/baths) + 4 hollow-core (closets/utility), keeping hardware → $1,780–$6,400. The same 10 doors all solid-core: $1,900–$7,600. All hollow-core: $1,600–$4,600. The mix spends the premium only where it's heard — which is why it's the calculator's default.
What's excluded: painting (primed doors still need finish), trim and casing ($2–$4 per linear foot if replaced), resizing or reframing openings ($250–$400 / $110–$220), and specialty doors — pocket, barn, French, bifold — which are priced per project.
📐How it's calculated▼
Total = solid count × (solid band + removal + hardware) + hollow count × (hollow band + removal + hardware).
Install per door: hollow $120–$380 · solid $150–$680 · Removal: $40–$80 · Hardware: $40–$150
Example — the smart mix, 6 solid + 4 hollow, keep existing hardware:
→ solid: ($150 + $40) to ($680 + $80) = $190–$760 each × 6 = $1,140–$4,560 → hollow: ($120 + $40) to ($380 + $80) = $160–$460 each × 4 = $640–$1,840 → total $1,780–$6,400 — against $1,900–$7,600 for the same 10 doors all-solid
Example — same mix with all-new hardware:
→ adds $40–$150 per door → $2,180–$7,900
Why the bands are wide: the low end is a straightforward swap into a square opening with a builder-grade door; the high end is a premium door into an older opening that needs shimming and fitting. Old houses with out-of-square jambs consistently land toward the top.
🔍Finding your inputs▼
Solid-core doors: Count the doors where quiet, privacy, and heft earn their premium — bedrooms, bathrooms, and the home office if calls happen there. Solid-core doors have an engineered wood or MDF core: noticeably quieter, heavier in the hand, more dent-resistant, and better-feeling every single day. A typical 3-bedroom home has 5 to 7 doors in this category. If you're going all-budget, set this to zero — but read the result panel's advice before you commit.
Hollow-core doors: Count the doors that just need to close — closets with swing doors, the pantry, the laundry, the basement, low-traffic rooms. Hollow-core doors are a veneer skin over a honeycomb interior: light, cheap, and completely adequate where nobody needs sound isolation. Their weaknesses are sound (they barely block any) and durability (a doorknob through a hollow door is a rite of passage), which is exactly why they belong on storage doors rather than bedroom doors. Two counting rules for both fields: don't include specialty doors (pocket, barn, French, and bifold closet doors are priced per project, not per batch — see the guide below), and count double-door closets with two swinging panels as two doors, since each is a door's worth of material and labor.
New hardware too: Whether every door also gets a new knob or lever set (privacy sets — the push-button lock — for bedrooms and baths; passage sets elsewhere) and matching hinges. Keeping existing hardware saves $40 to $150 a door, which is real money across twelve doors. The case for replacing anyway: hardware is the jewelry on the door, old hinges telegraph their age through paint layers, and nothing undermines crisp new doors like 1987 polished brass. If your existing hardware is recent and consistent, keep it; if it's mixed eras and finishes, replace it while the doors are off — hanging hardware on a door being installed is much cheaper than a separate visit later.
⚠️Special situations▼
Should I buy pre-hung doors or just replace the slabs?
It depends entirely on the condition of your existing frames, and it's the biggest cost fork in a whole-house job. A pre-hung door arrives already mounted in its frame with hinges set — the installer removes your old door and frame together, sets the new unit, shims it plumb, and reattaches casing. A slab is just the door itself: the installer keeps your existing frame and jambs, mortises hinges to match, bores for the knob, and fits the slab to the opening. The economics: slabs cost roughly half what pre-hung units do in materials, and there's no demolition or casing work — but the labor is more skilled, because the door must be fitted to an opening that already exists, and a slab install takes two to four hours against one to two for pre-hung. Choose slabs when your frames are square, solid, and undamaged, when your casings are worth keeping (original trim in older homes is often nicer than anything you'd buy today), and when your openings are standard sizes. Choose pre-hung when frames are damaged or out of square, when you're changing door sizes, when the casings are getting replaced anyway, or when the existing jambs have been butchered by past hardware changes. The test worth doing before you decide: open each door to 45 degrees and let go — a door that swings on its own means an out-of-plumb frame, and close the door and look at the gap around it — an even gap means a square opening that will take a slab happily. On a mixed-condition house, mix the approach: pre-hung where frames are bad, slabs where they're good. One warning either way: if your home predates 1978 and you're disturbing painted frames and casings, lead-safe practices apply — a certified contractor handles containment, and DIY sanding of old painted jambs is the specific thing not to do.
Can I DIY interior door replacement to save on labor?
Pre-hung doors are a realistic intermediate DIY project; slab fitting is genuinely skilled work that punishes beginners — and the failure mode is a door that never quite closes right for the next decade. Taking pre-hung first: the unit arrives with the door already hinged square in its frame, so your job is removing the old door and casing, setting the new unit in the rough opening, shimming it plumb and square, nailing through the jamb, and reinstalling casing. The skills are careful shimming and patience with a level; the common mistakes are racking the frame by over-nailing before checking swing, and trusting the rough opening to be square (it isn't — shim to the level, not to the framing). Budget a half-day for your first and a couple of hours each once you've found the rhythm; across ten doors, at $120–$170 of labor each, DIY saves $1,200–$1,700 if your time is free and your patience holds. Slab replacement is a different animal: you're transferring hinge mortise locations to a fresh slab (a chisel-and-router job where 1/16 inch of error means a door that binds), boring the knob and latch holes in exactly the right spots, and often planing the slab to fit an opening that isn't quite the nominal size. Pros do this well because they've done it hundreds of times; first-timers reliably produce doors that stick, gap unevenly, or swing open on their own. If your project is slab-based, hire it — the skilled labor is exactly what you're paying for. Two DIY-adjacent middle paths worth knowing: some door dealers and manufacturers offer packages where they machine slabs to match your existing hinge and bore locations if you bring measurements or the old door — turning a skilled fitting job into a manageable swap. And regardless of who installs, painting is the DIY task with the best return: a weekend spraying or rolling twelve primed doors saves several hundred dollars of finishing labor with much lower stakes than the fitting work.
What about my closet bifolds, the pocket door, and the French doors to the office?
Price them separately — each specialty type has its own economics, and lumping them into a per-door batch quote is how estimates go sideways. Bifolds (the folding closet pairs) are actually the cheapest doors in the house: $45 to $180 for a single bifold and $90 to $500 for a double, and they're the most DIY-friendly of all — the track does the work, and replacement panels come in standard sizes. If your bifolds are the vinyl-wrapped 1980s kind, swapping them is cheap cosmetic surgery. Barn doors ($160 to $1,800 installed) are the fashionable conversion, and worth a clear-eyed note: they're surface-mounted sliders, which means they don't seal — sound and light pass around all four edges — so they're great for pantries, laundry rooms, and spaces where the door is mostly visual, and a poor choice for bathrooms and bedrooms where privacy matters. The hardware kit is most of the cost, and the wall needs blocking to carry the rail. French doors ($200 to $800 single, $400 to $1,600 double) are the office-and-den upgrade; the price spread tracks glass quality and whether the opening needs widening — converting a single-door opening to a French pair is really a reframing project ($250–$400 for resizing plus the doors). Pocket doors are the expensive one: $500 to $2,500, because a new pocket door in an existing wall means opening the wall, installing the frame and track kit inside it, and closing the wall back up — plumbing or wiring discovered in that wall cavity is the classic budget-doubler. Replacing a door within an existing pocket is far cheaper (the frame is already there), though old pocket hardware often justifies replacing the rollers and track while it's open. The practical approach for a whole-house project: run this calculator for your swinging doors, then add specialty doors as line items from these ranges — and if a contractor quotes the house, make sure their count separates the two the same way.
Is replacing all the interior doors worth it before selling the house?
Selectively, yes — wholesale, usually not, and the difference is which doors buyers actually touch. The honest real-estate logic: interior doors are a finish detail that buyers experience physically — they open the bedroom doors, they notice a flimsy hollow rattle or a knob that's loose — but doors don't headline listings the way kitchens and floors do. Full-house replacement at $1,900–$7,600 rarely returns dollar-for-dollar on sale price alone; what it does is remove a dated-house signal, and dated signals are what drag offers on otherwise-updated homes. So the pre-sale playbook is triage rather than transformation. First, fix the failures: any door that sticks, doesn't latch, has a hole (the classic doorknob-through-hollow-core wound), or visibly sags gets repaired or replaced — a broken door in a walkthrough reads as deferred maintenance everywhere. Second, replace the high-touch doors buyers operate: the primary bedroom and main bath doors, and the doors visible from the main living space. Third, for everything structurally fine but tired: new hardware and fresh paint deliver most of the visual refresh at a fraction of the cost — consistent modern levers in a current finish across every door costs a few hundred dollars and photographs like a renovation, and painting existing flat doors (or adding trim to convert flat slabs to a paneled look) is the budget version of replacement. Where full replacement does make pre-sale sense: a home being positioned against renovated comps, where the rest of the interior is done and the original hollow doors are the one remaining tell — in that specific situation the doors are what's capping the comp set you show in. And if you're staying five-plus years, ignore the resale math entirely: solid-core bedroom doors are a daily quality-of-life upgrade you'll enjoy the whole time, and the eventual sale gets the benefit anyway.
❓Common questions▼
How much does it cost to replace all the interior doors in a house?
For a typical home with 8 to 12 swinging interior doors, plan on $1,600 to $7,600 installed, with the spread driven mostly by door quality. The arithmetic: professional replacement runs $120 to $380 per door for hollow-core and $150 to $680 per door for solid-core — complete-installation figures covering the door and the labor — plus $40 to $80 per door to remove and dispose of the old ones, a line item that matters when twelve doors need to leave the property. New hardware (a knob or lever set and hinges per door) adds roughly $40 to $150 each if you replace it, and reusing existing hardware is a legitimate saver when it's in decent shape. So ten hollow-core doors keeping existing hardware lands around $1,600–$4,600; ten solid-core around $1,900–$7,600; and the smart mixed approach — solid-core for bedrooms and bathrooms, hollow-core for closets and utility spaces — falls between, capturing the sound-and-solidity upgrade where it's felt while saving on doors nobody touches. Costs not in those figures: painting (most doors arrive primed, and finishing is quoted separately unless you buy pre-finished), new trim and casing ($2–$4 per linear foot) if the casings are being redone, fixing non-standard or out-of-square openings ($110–$400 per opening, a routine surprise in older homes), and specialty doors — pocket ($500–$2,500), barn ($160–$1,800), French ($200–$1,600), and bifolds — which are priced per project rather than per batch. Count your doors in the calculator above to see your own range, and ask installers about multi-door package pricing; dealers often discount batches and sometimes deliver them pre-painted.
Are solid-core doors worth the extra cost over hollow-core?
In bedrooms and bathrooms, almost always; in closets and utility rooms, almost never — which is why the best answer for a whole house is both. What the premium buys: a solid-core door has an engineered wood or MDF core where a hollow-core door has a cardboard honeycomb, and the difference is immediate in three ways. Sound: solid-core blocks meaningfully more noise, which is the whole game for bedroom walls shared with living space, kids' rooms, bathrooms, and any door you take calls behind. Feel: the weight and the solid close read as quality every single time the door is used — it's the difference you notice in nicer homes without knowing why. Durability: solid-core resists dents and takes hardware more securely, while hollow doors are famously one doorknob away from a hole. The cost difference at install is $150–$680 versus $120–$380 per door — at the typical middle of those bands, roughly $100–$200 more per door. Across four to six bedroom and bathroom doors, that's a few hundred to a bit over a thousand dollars for the rooms where sound and privacy actually matter, which is among the better dollar-per-satisfaction upgrades in a house. Where solid-core is wasted: closet, pantry, and laundry doors that exist to hide storage — no one needs sound isolation from their linen closet, and the extra weight does nothing on a door opened twice a week. The one caution: solid-core's weight is real (60–90 pounds against 25–30), so it wants three solid hinges and a properly secured frame — on a slab swap into old jambs, make sure the frame can carry it. If you're pricing a whole house, run the calculator both ways and blend: solid where you sleep, hollow where you store is the configuration remodelers pick for their own homes.
How long does it take to replace interior doors?
A professional replaces a pre-hung interior door in one to two hours and fits a slab door in two to four hours — so a whole-house project of ten doors is typically a one-to-three-day job depending on the approach, the house's age, and how much finishing is included. The pre-hung path is faster because the door arrives already hinged square in its frame: the crew removes the old door and casing, sets and shims the new unit, and re-cases. The slab path keeps your existing frames, which saves demolition but adds fitting time — hinge mortises must be transferred precisely, latch hardware bored to match, and the slab often planed to the actual (never quite nominal) opening. Add time for the realities of older homes: out-of-square openings need extra shimming, non-standard sizes may need doors trimmed or openings adjusted ($110–$400 when reframing or resizing is involved), and discovering a butchered jamb mid-job is routine in houses with a few decades of hardware changes behind them. Painting is the schedule item people forget: most replacement doors arrive primed rather than finished, and finishing twelve doors properly — both faces, edges, dry time between coats — adds days if it's done after hanging, which is why efficient projects either buy pre-finished doors, have the batch sprayed before installation, or plan the painting as a separate DIY weekend. For scheduling purposes: a straightforward ten-door pre-hung swap with pre-finished doors is a solid one-day job for a two-person crew; the same count in slabs on an older house with site painting stretches toward a week of elapsed time. If a contractor quotes multiple weeks for a routine door package, ask what's driving it; if one quotes a single afternoon for ten slab fittings, ask that too.
Do new interior doors add value to a home?
They add appeal more than appraisal value — doors are a finish detail that shapes how updated a home feels, which influences offers indirectly rather than showing up as a line in a valuation. The honest framing: no appraiser adds a dollar figure for new bedroom doors the way square footage or a renovated kitchen moves the number. What doors do is remove a dated-house tell. Buyers walking an updated home register flat 1970s hollow slabs, painted-over hinges, and loose knobs as 'there's more to redo here,' and that impression discounts otherwise strong finishes — while consistent, solid-feeling doors with current hardware make the same house read finished. That's why the value case is strongest for homes where doors are the weak link: an updated interior with original builder-grade doors gets more from a door package than a dated house does, because in the dated house the doors are the least of the buyer's mental renovation list. The cost-effective versions of the upgrade, in ascending order: new consistent hardware across every door (a few hundred dollars, photographs like a renovation), paint plus applied trim to dress existing flat slabs, selective replacement of the high-touch doors (primary bedroom, main bath, doors visible from living areas), and full replacement — the $1,600–$7,600 whole-house job — reserved for homes being positioned against renovated comps or owners who'll stay to enjoy it. On materials for value: shaker-style two-panel doors in white are the current safe choice, readable as updated without being trend-locked; heavily styled doors personalize rather than add value. And the quality-of-life point deserves the last word: if you're staying, solid-core bedroom doors are one of the few upgrades you physically experience many times a day — worth pricing on those grounds alone, with the resale story as a bonus.
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