Gas Line Installation Cost
Running a new gas line costs $15–$25 per foot for simple runs — $500–$1,200 for a stove, $400–$900 for a dryer, $600–$1,300 for a grill. Price your appliance or your exact footage, permit included.
A gas line prices on two things: how far the pipe runs from your existing gas service, and what the pipe has to travel through — an exposed basement run and a trenched yard line are different jobs. This is licensed-plumber work with a permit and a pressure test everywhere; that's the leak check, not red tape.
How do you want to price it?
Pick your appliance for a typical-run estimate, or price by the foot if you know the distance from your nearest gas line.
What's getting the gas line?
Each appliance has a typical run: dryers are usually short drops from existing lines, kitchens need 20–30 feet, and grills, pool heaters, and generators depend on how far into the yard they sit.
Cost to run a gas line to a stove
$600–$1,500
licensed installation, materials, permit, and pressure testing — extending from your existing gas service
What makes a run simple or complex
Simple runs travel exposed spaces — basements, crawl spaces, garage walls — at $15–$25 per foot. The price doublers: finished walls (opened and re-patched), underground runs (trenched, or directionally bored at $10–$30/ft to spare driveways and landscaping), and every extra turn and fitting. Placement tip that saves real money: put the grill, fire pit, or generator on the house side of the yard, near where the gas already lives.
Two bigger projects this estimate isn't
If your home has no gas service, the street connection comes first — $2,000–$10,000 and the utility's timeline. And if the new load outgrows your meter (adding a generator plus a tankless heater can), meter upgrades are the utility's call — often free, sometimes not — while relocating a meter runs $1,000–$4,500. Have your plumber total the BTUs before promising the meter can feed everything.
Based on $15–$25 per foot for simple runs and $35–$50+ for complex ones, materials and labor included — black iron ($5–$10/ft in material) remains the interior standard, with flexible CSST requiring proper bonding. Typical appliance runs: dryers are short drops, kitchens need 20–30 feet of pipe, tankless water heaters may need larger-diameter pipe for their BTU draw. Pressure testing (from $75) verifies the work before gas flows.
💡About this calculator▼
Every gas appliance upgrade hits the same prerequisite question: what does it cost to get the pipe there? Whether it's the induction-holdout's new range, the grill that's done with propane tanks, or the standby generator waiting on its fuel line, the answer follows two things: how far the pipe runs, and what it has to travel through.
The by-the-foot math: simple runs cost $15–$25 per linear foot installed — pipe traveling exposed basements, crawl spaces, and accessible walls. Complex runs cost $35–$50+ per foot: underground trenching, finished walls that get opened and patched, multiple turns and fittings. A 20-foot kitchen run lands at $300–$500 simple; a 50-foot trenched yard line at $1,800–$2,500.
By appliance, the typical totals: a dryer runs $400–$900 (usually a short drop from an existing line), a stove $500–$1,200 (kitchens typically need 20–30 feet of pipe), a grill or fire pit $600–$1,300, a fireplace $500–$1,000+, a furnace $600–$1,500, and a generator $400–$1,500+ depending on where its pad sits.
One scope note and one safety note. This prices extending from gas service you already have — a home without gas needs the street connection first ($2,000–$10,000, on the utility's terms). And gas work is licensed-professional territory everywhere: the permit ($100–$300, included below) and pressure test aren't bureaucracy — they're the leak check.
Price it by what you're connecting, or by the footage — both from published data.
By appliance. Each appliance carries a typical-run band: dryer $400–$900, generator $400–$1,500+, fireplace $500–$1,000+, water heater $500–$1,000 (tankless models may need larger-diameter pipe for their BTU draw), pool heater $500–$1,500+, stove $500–$1,200, grill or fire pit $600–$1,300, and furnace $600–$1,500. The spread within each band is mostly the run: a dryer beside the utility room prices at the floor; a fire pit across the yard prices like the trench it needs.
By the foot. The published length pricing runs two columns: simple installations (easy access — exposed framing, basements, crawl spaces) at $15–$25 per foot, and complex ones (underground runs, finished walls, multiple turns, tight access) at $35–$50+. That makes a 10-foot run $150–$250 simple or $350–$500 complex, scaling to $1,500–$2,500 and $3,500–$5,000 at 100 feet. Underground runs choose between trenching (cheaper, tears the yard) and directional boring at $10–$30 per foot (spares driveways and landscaping).
Always on the bill: the permit ($100–$300 — nearly all gas work requires one) and a pressure test (from $75) proving the new line holds before gas flows. Black iron remains the interior standard; flexible CSST installs faster but requires proper electrical bonding.
📐How it's calculated▼
By appliance: the typical-run band + permit. Dryer $400–$900 · generator $400–$1,500+ · fireplace $500–$1,000+ · water heater $500–$1,000 · pool heater $500–$1,500+ · stove $500–$1,200 · grill/fire pit $600–$1,300 · furnace $600–$1,500.
By the foot: length × condition + permit. Simple runs: $15–$25 per foot ($150–$250 at 10 ft, $750–$1,300 at 50 ft, $1,500–$2,500 at 100 ft). Complex runs: $35–$50+ per foot ($350–$500 at 10 ft, $1,800–$2,500 at 50 ft, $3,500–$5,000 at 100 ft).
Permit: +$100–$300 on nearly every job.
Context for bigger scopes: extending an existing line overall runs $350–$2,000; bringing gas service from the street runs $2,000–$10,000; relocating a gas meter runs $1,000–$4,500. Materials are a small share — black iron costs $5–$10 per foot and flexible CSST $2–$10 before labor.
🔍Finding your inputs▼
How do you want to price it? If you just know what you're hooking up, the appliance mode gives the typical-run answer. If you can walk the pipe's path — from your nearest gas line to the new appliance — the by-the-foot mode prices your actual run, and it's the mode to trust when your situation isn't typical (a grill far across the yard, a dryer right beside the meter).
What's getting the gas line? (Appliance mode.) Pick the appliance. Two notes from the fine print: tankless water heaters draw enough BTUs that they sometimes need larger-diameter pipe than the band assumes, and generator runs depend heavily on where code setbacks force the pad.
How long is the run — and simple or complex? (By-the-foot mode.) Measure along the path the pipe takes: down the wall, across the basement ceiling, around the corner — not the straight line through the house. Then be honest about the path: exposed and accessible is simple; anything requiring trenching, opening finished walls, or threading tight spaces is complex, and it roughly doubles the rate.
⚠️Special situations▼
My house doesn't have gas service at all
Different project, bigger number: the connection from the street main runs $2,000–$10,000 and moves at the utility's pace — application, engineering, sometimes road cutting. Rule of thumb: it pencils out when you're converting multiple appliances (furnace, water heater, range together), rarely for one grill. No main in the street at all? Propane is the standard answer, with appliance conversions being trivial and a tank install running a few hundred to $1,800.
I want the grill or fire pit way out in the yard
This is where by-the-foot mode earns its place: a 75-foot yard run prices at $2,600–$3,800 complex — often more than the grill. The levers: siting the fire feature closer to the house (every foot saved is $35–$50), directional boring at $10–$30/foot if the run crosses a driveway or prized landscaping, and honestly weighing whether a $30 propane tank exchange is your actual answer. Gas wins on convenience forever; it just has an entry fee proportional to distance.
I'm switching from electric to a gas stove
The line is the $500–$1,200 answer here — but run the whole comparison first: our gas-vs-electric stove page weighs purchase, installation (this line versus a 240V circuit), and years of energy for your actual kitchen. If you're already committed to gas, one placement note: the line arrives where the stove sits, so finalize the kitchen layout before the plumber, not after.
Can the new line tee off the line feeding my furnace?
Often yes — teeing from the nearest adequate line is exactly how short, cheap runs happen — but adequacy is a math problem, not a proximity one: the existing pipe's diameter must carry both loads' BTUs at pressure, or both appliances starve when running together. This is the calculation a licensed plumber does in minutes and a handyman skips. Undersized teed lines are how water heaters mysteriously underperform every winter.
How disruptive is running a line through finished walls?
It's a drywall project wearing a plumbing hat: the plumber opens access holes at turns and anchor points, runs and secures the pipe, pressure-tests, and leaves you patches to fix — patching and painting are usually excluded, so budget them ($1.50–$3.50 per square foot of repair, plus paint). Route-planning matters: a slightly longer run through a basement and up one wall cavity often beats a shorter run through three finished walls.
❓Common questions▼
How much does it cost to install a gas line?
Running a new gas line from existing service costs $15–$25 per linear foot for simple, accessible runs and $35–$50+ per foot for complex ones involving trenching or finished walls — plus a $100–$300 permit. By appliance: a dryer line runs $400–$900, a stove $500–$1,200, a grill or fire pit $600–$1,300, and a furnace $600–$1,500. Bringing gas from the street to an unserved home is a separate $2,000–$10,000 project.
How much does it cost to run a gas line for a stove?
Typically $500–$1,200: kitchens usually need 20–30 feet of half- or three-quarter-inch pipe from the nearest gas source, and the spread is access — a straight shot through an unfinished basement prices low, while threading finished walls prices high and leaves drywall patches to repair. Add the $100–$300 permit, and if you're still weighing gas against electric or induction, run the full comparison before committing to the pipe.
Can I run my own gas line?
In most jurisdictions, no — and everywhere, you shouldn't. Gas work requires licensed professionals, permits (nearly universal, $100–$300), and pressure testing, because the failure mode is a leak in your house. Even where homeowner permits technically exist, insurers and buyers treat unpermitted gas work as a defect. The pipe is cheap ($2–$10 per foot in material); the licensed hands and the leak test are what you're actually buying.
How deep are gas lines buried?
Exterior runs are trenched below grade with depth set by local code — and placement marked before any digging, which is why 811 (call-before-you-dig) precedes every yard project near gas. For runs crossing driveways, sidewalks, or landscaping you'd rather not destroy, horizontal directional boring at $10–$30 per foot tunnels underneath instead — pricier per foot, but it routinely wins once you count landscape and concrete restoration.
What is CSST and is it safe?
Corrugated stainless steel tubing — the flexible yellow line that snakes through walls faster than threading black iron pipe, at $2–$10 per foot in material. It's code-approved and widely used with one non-negotiable requirement: proper electrical bonding and grounding, because unbonded CSST can be damaged by nearby lightning strikes. If your bid specifies CSST, the bonding should be in the same bid — its absence is the mark of a corner about to be cut.
Will my gas meter handle another appliance?
Total the BTUs: every gas appliance has a rating, the meter has a delivery capacity, and a house running furnace, water heater, range, and dryer may not have headroom for a big addition like a standby generator or pool heater. Your plumber does this arithmetic in minutes. If the meter falls short, upgrades are the utility's territory — often free as infrastructure, but on their timeline — and relocating a meter runs $1,000–$4,500.
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