☀️Solar & Energy

Generator Size Calculator

Find the generator size you need in watts or kilowatts: pick essentials, comfort, or the whole house, say whether you're on a well, and get the portable class or standby size that covers both the running load and the starting surge, using the utility sizing worksheet and manufacturer wattage charts.

A generator has to carry everything you run at once and the surge when the biggest motor starts. This adds up what you want to keep on, the way the utility sizing worksheet does, and names the generator size that covers it.

What do you want to keep running?

Essentials is the refrigerator, sump pump, furnace blower, and lights and electronics. Comfort adds a window air conditioner, an electric water heater, and the washer. Whole house is everything, including central air.

Are you on a well?

A well pump is one of the biggest motors in a house. Skip this if you're on city water.

Which kind of generator?

A portable runs on gasoline and plugs into a transfer switch or extension cords. A standby is permanently installed on natural gas or propane and starts itself.

Portable generator to look for

5,500 watts

3,100 W running, 5,300 W surge when the refrigerator starts.

Running watts, everything on at once3,100 W
Starting surge when the refrigerator kicks on5,300 W
Standby that covers the same list10 kW

The surge is the number that trips breakers

Motors draw two to three times their running watts for a couple of seconds when they start, so the sizing rule is to add every running load and then add the single biggest starting surge — the refrigerator here. A generator that clears the running total but not the surge stalls or trips the moment the compressor kicks on with everything else running. If you own a 1 HP well pump or a big furnace blower, the nameplate wins over the chart figures used here, and you should go a size up.

Extension cords can't reach the furnace

A portable on extension cords can only power what plugs into a wall: the refrigerator, lamps, a window unit. The furnace blower, sump pump, well pump and water heater are hardwired, so they need a manual transfer switch or an interlock kit at the panel, installed by an electrician, which is also the only safe way to feed the house. Never backfeed through a dryer outlet, and never run the generator in a garage or near a window: the exhaust is deadly indoors.

Essentials and comfort follow the utility sizing worksheet: add running watts, then the single largest starting surge, using published appliance wattages. Whole house uses the manufacturer's kW ladder by home size. Generators are matched on rated and surge watts (surge taken as 1.25× rating). Check your own nameplates and have an electrician confirm. 2026 figures.

💡About this calculator▼

Generator shopping goes wrong in one predictable way: people add up what they want to run, buy a unit that covers it, and then watch it stall the first time the refrigerator compressor kicks on with the furnace already running. The number that matters is not just the running load. It is the running load plus the surge the biggest motor draws for a couple of seconds when it starts.

This uses the sizing worksheet utilities hand out. Pick what you want to keep on, from the refrigerator, sump pump, furnace blower, and lights up through a window air conditioner and the water heater, say whether you are on a well, and the calculator adds the running watts and then the single largest starting surge, the way the worksheet says to. Then it names the portable class or standby size whose rating and surge both clear those numbers.

Whole house is a different question. Add up every circuit in a home and you get a number nobody installs, because nothing runs at once and standby systems manage loads. For that path the calculator uses the sizes generator makers themselves publish by home size, and it says plainly that no portable covers a whole house.

Essentials and comfort: the worksheet method. Utilities publish a sizing worksheet: list what you want to power, add up the running watts, then find the single item with the highest starting surge and add that one number. The result is the starting watts a generator must produce for a few seconds and the running watts it must hold. The calculator uses the worksheet's own appliance chart: a refrigerator at 700 running and 2,200 additional to start, a one-third horsepower sump pump at 800 and 1,300, a furnace blower at 700 and 1,400, a half-horsepower well pump at 1,000 and 2,100, a 10,000 BTU window air conditioner at 1,200 and 3,600, an electric water heater at 4,000 with no surge, and a washer at 1,150 and 2,250. Lights and electronics are a 900-watt allowance.

Matching a generator. A generator has two ratings: the watts it can supply continuously and the surge it can produce briefly. The calculator picks the smallest common portable class, from 3,500 to 15,000 watts, whose rating covers the running total and whose surge, taken as 1.25 times the rating the way Generac's GP series is rated, covers the starting total. It does the same across the standby lineup of 10, 14, 18, 22, 24, and 26 kilowatts.

Whole house: the manufacturer ladder. For a whole home the makers publish sizes by home size: 10 to 14 kilowatts for a smaller home's essentials, 18 to 22 for a home around 2,000 square feet with 22 as the standard, and 26 or more for larger homes with heavy air conditioning. That ladder assumes the transfer switch manages loads, which is how a 22 kilowatt unit runs a house whose central air alone can demand 15 to 18 kilowatts to start. The calculator reports the ladder size and, on the portable path, explains that the hardwired loads in a whole house need a standby.

📐How it's calculated▼

Total starting watts = total running watts + the single largest additional starting watts. Essentials: refrigerator 700 + sump pump 800 + furnace blower 700 + lights and electronics 900 = 3,100 running watts. The largest starting surge on that list is the refrigerator's 2,200, so the generator must produce 3,100 + 2,200 = 5,300 starting watts.

Match to a generator. The 3,500-watt class surges to about 4,375, short of 5,300. The 5,500-watt class rates 5,500 running and surges to 6,875, so 5,500 watts is the portable answer; a 10 kW standby covers it easily.

Add a well pump. A half-horsepower well pump adds 1,000 running watts and its 2,100 surge is still below the refrigerator's, so essentials on a well are 4,100 running and 6,300 starting. The 5,500 class surges to 6,875, so it still fits, but with only about 9 percent of surge to spare, which is why the result page suggests going a class up when you land this close to the line.

Comfort. Add a window air conditioner (1,200, surge 3,600), an electric water heater (4,000, no surge) and the washer (1,150, surge 2,250): 9,450 running, and the largest surge is now the air conditioner's 3,600, so 13,050 starting watts. That takes a 12,000-watt portable class (15,000 surge) or a 14 kW standby.

Checking the worksheet's own example. The utility's worked example lists six items totaling 12,500 running watts with a highest surge of 2,300 and concludes "at least 12,500 Total Running Watts and 14,800 Total Starting Watts." The calculator applies exactly that arithmetic.

📎Sources:Fall River Electric Cooperative — Standby Generator Sizing Guide (worksheet method and wattage chart),Generac — What Size Generator Do I Need? (kW ladder by home size, AC starting loads),Generac — Air-cooled home standby generator sizes (10–26 kW Guardian lineup),Honda Power Equipment — Generator Wattage Chart (running and starting watts by appliance)

🔍Finding your inputs▼

What do you want to keep running: Essentials is what keeps a house safe and food cold: refrigerator, sump pump, furnace blower, and lights and electronics. Comfort adds a window air conditioner, an electric water heater, and the washer. Whole house is everything, including central air, and is sized differently, from the manufacturer's ladder rather than a list.

Are you on a well: A well pump is one of the largest motors in a house, at about 1,000 running watts and a 2,100-watt surge for a half-horsepower pump. It is also hardwired, so a portable can only run it through a transfer switch. City-water homes skip it.

Heated square footage: Only asked for whole-house sizing, where the makers' recommendations are by home size. A typical home is 1,500 to 2,500 square feet.

Which kind of generator: A portable runs on gasoline, sits outside on wheels, and feeds the house through extension cords or, properly, a manual transfer switch. A standby is permanently installed, runs on natural gas or propane, and starts itself. The hero shows the size for the kind you pick, and a row shows the other for comparison.

⚠️Special situations▼

Can I run my furnace off a portable generator with extension cords?

Not without an electrician. A gas furnace only needs a few hundred watts for its blower and controls, but it is hardwired to the panel, so there is no plug to run a cord to. The same is true of the sump pump in most basements, the well pump, and the water heater. The safe fix is a manual transfer switch or an interlock kit at the panel, which lets a portable feed selected circuits through one properly wired inlet. Never backfeed a house through a dryer or range outlet: it can energize the utility lines and electrocute a line worker, and it is illegal everywhere.

The calculator says 5,500 watts but the generator I want is rated 5,000 running and 6,250 surge. Close enough?

For the essentials list, no. Essentials need 3,100 running and 5,300 starting, so a 6,250 surge clears the start, but a generator running at 62 percent of its rating all day is fine while one that has to catch a 5,300-watt surge with 6,250 available is working near its limit every time the refrigerator cycles. Add a well pump and it fails outright. Buy the next class up, or drop something from the list; the worksheet totals are minimums the utility wants met with margin, not targets to hit exactly.

I have central air. Can a portable run it during a summer outage?

Almost never a practical answer. A 3-ton central air conditioner runs at 3.5 to 5 kilowatts but can demand 15 to 18 kilowatts for a moment when the compressor starts, which is beyond any common portable and is why whole-house sizing lands at 22 kilowatts. The realistic portable options are a window unit for one room, which the comfort preset includes at 1,200 running and 3,600 starting watts, or a soft-start kit on the central unit that cuts its starting surge to a fraction, installed by an HVAC technician, after which a large portable through a transfer switch can sometimes carry it.

My house is 1,800 square feet and the whole-house answer says 22 kW. The installer quoted 18.

Either can be right, and the installer is looking at your actual loads. The manufacturer's ladder puts homes around 2,000 square feet at 18 to 22 kilowatts and calls 22 the industry standard, so an 18 for a slightly smaller home with gas heat and one modest air conditioner is a reasonable call, particularly with a load-managing transfer switch. What should be in the quote is the load calculation: the air conditioner tonnage, whether the range, dryer, and water heater are electric, and what the switch sheds. If those are written down, trust the 18. If the number came from square footage alone, ask for the calculation.

❓Common questions▼

What size generator do I need to run a house?

For the essentials, the refrigerator, sump pump, furnace blower, and lights, about 3,100 running watts and a 5,300-watt starting surge, which a 5,500-watt portable or a 10 kW standby covers; add a well pump and the same 5,500-watt class still fits, with little surge to spare, so 6,500 is the comfortable buy. Adding a window air conditioner, an electric water heater, and the washer brings it to about 9,450 running and 13,050 starting, a 12,000-watt portable or a 14 kW standby. A whole house with central air is a standby job: makers put a 2,000-square-foot home at 22 kW, smaller homes at 14, and larger ones at 26 or more.

What is the difference between running watts and starting watts?

Running watts are what an appliance draws continuously, and what the generator has to supply all the time. Starting watts are the extra draw a motor pulls for two or three seconds when it starts, typically two to three times its running figure, and the generator has to produce that peak or the motor stalls and the breaker trips. The sizing rule is to add up every running load, then add the single largest starting surge on the list, since motors rarely start at the same instant. Generators are rated both ways: a rated or continuous figure and a surge or peak figure.

Will a 7,500-watt generator run a whole house?

It will run a good part of one, but not a whole house with central air. A 7,500-watt portable, surging to about 9,400, comfortably carries the essentials with a well pump and has room for a window air conditioner or the water heater, though not everything in the comfort preset at once. What it cannot do is start a central air conditioner, which can demand 15 kilowatts or more for a moment, or carry the range and dryer together. Fed through a transfer switch with a little discipline about what runs when, 7,500 watts is a strong outage setup; it is not whole-house backup.

What size standby generator do I need for a 2,000 square foot house?

Makers put a home of that size at 18 to 22 kilowatts and call 22 the industry standard, because it runs central air and the kitchen at the same time with a load-managing transfer switch. A gas-heated home with a single modest air conditioner can often be served by 18; electric heat, a heat pump, or two air conditioners push toward 24 or 26. The number the installer should show you is a load calculation listing those loads; if the quote is by square footage alone, ask for it.

Can I run a generator in my garage with the door open?

No. Generator exhaust is carbon monoxide, and an open garage door does not clear it; people die this way every year in outages. Run a portable outside, at least 20 feet from the house, with the exhaust pointed away from windows, doors, and vents, and put battery carbon monoxide alarms inside. A standby is installed outdoors on a pad by code for the same reason. If you feel dizzy or sick while a generator is running, get outside first and deal with the generator second.